Shoulder-Roll Get one or more shoulder into the crack and lean your back against the wall. Begin to make "shugging" movements by bringing your shoulder forward, up, then back and down. Your shouder (blades?) will roll you up the cliff in back, and if your feet are good, you can just keep walking up that way. No hands are required, except to move the feet at times.
INCH-WORM For squeeze chimney. Get at least 1/2 of your back against the wall and feet and hands forward. (hands not really necessary again). Now arch your back, bringing your rear end up. Plant the butt and straiten the back, moving up the shoulders. Press shoulders back agaist the wall, and arch your back, bringing.... Ad infitum. Hands are somewhat necessary to move the butt, if it's a really tight squeeze.
CHEST JAM Self explanitory, used for rest. Squueze in, breathe in all of the way, and hold some of it in when you exhale. I can hang my whole body sometimes, for a few minutes of "complete" rest.
HIGH-FOOTMy personal favorite!!!! Whenever I find a good foot-hold/jam, I put the foot on it, and put my other leg (jamming or camming the foot into teh crack) WAYYYY up in the crack, with the leg strait. It's like a balerena doing hamstring stretches on a bar. With that firmly in place, I lean back on that leg (level with waist or higher) and let all of my weight rest on my foot-hold. The leg holds me in, and sometimes helps hold me up, so I can dangle my arms for a "complete" rest, and shake them out. This move is great when you get a good one!
HIGH-KNEE Raise the "free" leg as high into the crack as possible, while somewhat straight. Bend the leg all of the way, forceably. If the crack is JUST RIGHT, your knee and muscle around it will jam into the crack, allowing you to free your arms and shake out, as described for "HIGH-FOOT."
HURDLER Bring one foot up beside my butt, knee pointing down, so that the position is kind of like doing a hurdler stretch. The torque generated by my frame (skelital/ligaments) is enough to produce the required friction and whatnot to hold me on a single foot-hold (other foot) with no hands.
BAT HANG (DIFFICULT, ADVANCED, PAINFULL) Get inverted (heels over head) and point toes up into crack. The heels will be forced agaist one wall and the tops of the feet & shins against another. Friction MIGHT hold you up. It might not. Best if you can lock the feet onto a feature in the crack. If you think about the implications, you will realize why this is risky on lead. I have used it to place gear though, as My body, other than the feet, was completely free. I have also "walked" (up-side-down) out a section of pretty hard O.W. roof that way, placing one foot ahead at all times. (never crossing feet.) Be carfull not to drop your rack if it's on a shoulder sling, and think about how many sit- ups you think you can do. It takes abs to get the hands back up, cause bending the legs shifts the feet, and I found out that that isn't cool. Keeping the legs straight all of the way to the hip reduces the chance of foot-shift (and thus a fall, or pain) greatly. Some people can NOT achieve this position.
KNEE-LOCK (DIFFICULT, ADVANCED, PAINFULL UNLESS IN PANTS) This trick will work for cracks 12-20 (or thereabouts, leg-length dependant) It is best if they are not completely smooth, but I've had it work on some pretty clean cracks. When possible. I get into a position that is like a lie-back, clinging under the roof-crack. Alot of the time, I get some aid in this by a foot twisted up into the crack. Next, I bend one leg (free one) at the knee and point the knee as far into the crack as possible, straight up. Placing a foot on the side of the crack furthest from me, my quadriceps (front of leg) touch donw on the neer side of the crack, camming me in. This is an old face-climbing trick called a "knee-bar" by most climbers. I have also "walked" out of sections of O.W. rooves like this, a few inches at a time, but it sure is rest for the arms! Alot of times, hands are required to move the legs. Try not to let the pressure come on your knees, they're expensive (and painful) to replace. The cam should be between the feet and quads. Oh yeah, if the fit of the crack is a little loose, I always point my toes out and that makes my legs effectively longer. You will be facing head-down again, so assess the risk of climbing like this before you do it. The friction generated on you quads burns and can tear the skin if you're not wearing pants/sweats.