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Rock Climbing Guide to the Castle Rock Area

Rock Climbing Guide to the Castle Rock Area 2007
by Bruce Morris. Price $32.50. 215 pages.

Overview:This guide is a follow on to the original guide by Bruce titled Rock Climbers guide to Skyline Blvd. Unlike other follow on guides to climbing in the area this book is worth the purchase. With detailed maps, cleaner topo's, color photo's, updated routes, the addition of new climbing areas (such as garden of Eden) and the incorporation of the bouldering circuits into this book make this is your best buy guide to climbing in the Santa Cruz mountains.

Reviewers Opinion: This is the best guide to the area. No question about it. The author addressed some of my recommendations with more photos, the addition of the bouldering scene and added some safety tips. The addition of new routes and new areas is very cool and greatly appreciated.

Recommendation to the Author: Nothing negative to say here. I only have a couple suggestions for improvements for future additions.

  • GPS locations to the base of the climbing areas, trailheads and forks used to reach climb sites.
  • Any special information required for a TR setup or lead, such as directional setup, routes requiring long webbing, set ups off of natural features, ,etc.. (goat rock cheese face, dismal abysmal, Desperado, etc...) Also, I would like to add a note to anyone attempting to set up on Desperado on Indian Rock's east face. It would be best to lower yourself from the anchors at the top of blowing bubbles (base of dismal) to get to Desperado's anchors. The face leading down to these anchors is mossy and can be very slippery. A fall here could lead to some serious pain or even death. Best to be safe and lower yourself to the anchors then rap down to the base from there. Note 2; on Dismal Abysmal, upper east face of Indian rock. This route is intended to be led but is often TR'd using the anchors next to Donkey Dong. This causes a big swing affect along the overhanging edge of the climb. Losing it there has caused many a rope to saw along this sharp edge. Setting a 20' piece of webbing up as a long side pull anchor, from the top anchors of Hocus to the lip of the overhanging crux of Dismal, will prevent this sawing action, save you a rope and possibly save your life.

Rating - 5 Stars ***** (5 is best 1 is worst). Recommended purchase. Worth the price. The the best guide for Climbing in Castle Rock and surrounding area!

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